There are many different models of crampon available, from strap-on hiking / walking types to mountaineering and climbing designs, so choose carefully.
Some people wonder if crampons are really necessary when hiking. But snow-covered mountain terrain can be unpredictable, so it is always a sensible idea to at least carry a set of crampons. For an overview of some of the most varied and challenging winter hiking in the world, read Winter hill walking on Britain’s frozen summits. Below, we will look at the different types of crampon available and how to fit them.
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What are crampons used for?
If you are wearing stiff hiking or mountaineering boots and using an ice axe properly, you can often get by without crampons – especially if the terrain is gentle and snow is soft. But if we move onto steeper slopes or hard snow and ice, stiff boots and an axe aren’t enough. In fact, cramponing is considered one of the basic winter mountaineering skills, improving our security and speeding progress.
The first crampons were a strap-on design, invented in 1908 by English mountaineer Oscar Eckenstein. They were then marketed by Grivel. The word ‘crampon’ comes from Old French. In German they are steigeisen and in Italian ramponi.
Types of crampons
Modern crampons come in a wide variety of designs and made from stainless steel, hardened steel, or aluminium alloy. They attach to suitable footwear with straps, levers, or a combination of both. Most are length-adjustable without tools and the number of points depends on their intended use. Rubber or plastic ‘anti balling’ plates are fairly standard and prevent clogging with snow. Read on below to find out about the different types and boot / crampon compatibility.
⚠️ Correct fitting is vital when using crampons. Boots that are too soft can result in foot pain or the crampon coming off and causing a fall. Poor fitting can also cause breakage due to metal fatigue. Here’s 5 tips for correct crampon fitting:
- Boot at least as stiff as the crampon
- Match crampon to the boot : the crampon’s length, width and curvature should follow the boot sole
- Retighten straps after a few minutes wear
- Avoid fitting too tight – it’s just as bad as too loose
- Shorten straps to avoid tangles
| C1 crampon | C2 crampon | C3 crampon | |
|---|---|---|---|
| B0 boot | No ❌ | No ❌ | No ❌ |
| B1 boot | Yes ✅ | No ❌ | No ❌ |
| B2 boot | Yes ✅ | Yes ✅ | No ❌ |
| B3 boot | Yes ✅ | Yes ✅ | Yes ✅ |
Instep-type crampons
This type of crampon only has a few small spikes on each foot and is designed to fit under the instep only. These are very light because they lack heel and front points. But they only provide enough security for walking across flat and very low-angled snow and ice. These can be a good choice for mountain runners. This type of crampon could fit hiking boots or shoes that are too bendy to be classified as B1, and are always a strap-on design.
What about microspikes?
Microspikes are a great alternative to full-sized crampons in certain hiking situations. For instance, where there are no hard, steep slopes and a fall would not lead to serious injury. They are much lighter than crampons, work on any footwear and present less of a trip hazard. Snowline Spikes are among the best on the market. Unlike walking crampons, they use a stretchy elastomer instead of a strap-on design.
Walking (C1)
Modern walking crampons usually have a flexible spring steel bar connecting the heel and forefoot sections. This means the crampon can be fitted to slightly more flexible winter boots (B1). Because of their high degree of flex, these crampons are attached with a long strap. This is more fiddly, but very secure. Walking crampons are quite light weight and usually have 10 relatively short points (which is plenty for flat-footing on gentle to moderate slopes).
Mountaineering (C2)
This crampon type has a stiffer bar, allowing it to fit stiffer (B2) mountaineering boots. Thus, these types can use a heel clip, plastic toe cradle and a strap to attach to the boot, making fitting a bit quicker. They are usually made from stronger, stiffer metal and have up to 12 longer points (including a set of ‘secondary front points’). All these features make them heavier, but very secure (for example, when front pointing up steep slopes).
Climbing (C3)
These crampons are rigid, highly specialised and must only be fitted to B3-classed boots. They are often referred to as step-in or automatic crampons. They use a heel clip and steel toe bail, maybe with a connecting strap to avoid loss. This system makes them very quick to attach. These crampons may have as many as 14 long, sharp points. Furthermore, modular designs allow a single ‘monopoint’ to be fitted at the toe and a hook at the heel. This is to help maximise performance when ice or mixed climbing, or ‘dry tooling’.
Ski boot crampons
Specialised crampons exist for ski touring boots. Some or all of their points are made from aluminium alloy, which provides good grip but does blunt easily. They often have a non-standard strap arrangement to allow them to clip onto outsized ski boot shells. Because these are not for climbing steep ice or walking on rock, manufacturers can use kevlar cord or fabric in their construction. This reduces weight and pack size.
What type of crampon should I get?
Decide whether you will use crampons mainly on walking, mountaineering, climbing or ski touring journeys. Remember that ultralight-type crampons tend to blunt more quickly. Consider a modular type of crampon if you have multiple pairs of boots. Finally, choose the model that fits your boots the best and check it is UIAA and/or CE stamped.
Yes crampons are absolutely recommended for the UK mountains in winter.
‘Microspikes’ are like snowchains for feet, whereas crampons have long heavy-duty spikes. Microspikes are smaller and lighter, but proper crampons provide much more security.
If you know the model of the boot, ask the manufacturer / retailer / guide about crampon compatibility. If the model is not known, an expert will need to check the boot / crampon in person.
Crampons are essential for safe progress on steep, hard snow and ice. They require careful fitting and training, and are an important item on your winter mountaineering kit list.
Ice axes, crampons and famous scenery
