Ski touring in Scotland is all about wild backcountry skiing, and the Cairngorms should be top of your list if you’re just starting out.

Ski touring may actually be one of Scotland’s best-kept secrets. If you’re done with windy, narrow pistes, artificial snow and broken lifts, then maybe it’s time to head into Scotland’s wild, beautiful and challenging backcountry.

Read on to learn what Scottish ski touring is all about.

Backcountry ski touring in Scotland?

OK, let’s be honest. Scotland is not famous for bluebird skies and miles of untracked powder. But it is famous for wild, ancient landscape, changeable weather and resilient people. It may be unpredictable, but variety is one of the hallmarks of Scottish snowsports.

Ski touring in the Highlands of Scotland can feature Arctic plateaus, long approaches, whiteout and difficult skiing. But there’s also hidden snow stashes, memorable days and passionate skiers and riders. And if you’re super lucky, perhaps even tree skiing or Northern Lights!

People have been skiing in Scotland for generations. Some are scared off by Scotland’s off-piste, whilst others embrace it. In fact, our backcountry has a huge amount of learning and world-class experiences for those who come prepared.

Scotland’s variable weather and wild terrain together create a superb classroom and an exciting playground. Whether you are just starting out as a backcountry skier, or are already experienced, Scotland will certainly have terrain to suit.

Snow and avalanche in Scotland

Skinning and skiing

As ski tourers, we wouldn’t get very far without our climbing skins. But with the weather and snow always changing, it pays to develop good skinning technique. For maximum comfort and efficiency pick a good line and maybe work on your kick turns! Learn how to store your climbing skins correctly if you want them to perform well (especially in Scottish conditions). And definitely consider taking a set of ski crampons.

Scottish offpiste skiing, on the other hand, requires all the good stuff, like rythmn, balance and good pressure and edge control. And although sastrugi, ice, rock, crust, slush and heather are all features of touring here, there’s always some fresh turns to be had (sometimes in Scottish powder!).

Generations ago, tourers would often wait until late season. But in modern times folk will often try and bag turns as soon as the snow arrives. In fact conditions even in mid November can be surprisingly good – although rock sharks mean you might need a ski service afterwards!

All the Scottish ski areas have good touring and offpiste potential nearby. Most will also sell some form of tourers uplift ticket (depending on conditions). But if you’re planning on skinning up through a ski area, please follow the ski patrol’s advice and keep clear of the pistes…

Backcountry skiing for beginners

Backcountry skiing demands a very wide variety of skills, especially in an ever-changing environment like Scotland. Just being a good skier isn’t enough. And having mountaineering skills isn’t enough. You need both, plus the ability to make sound decisions in avalanche terrain. These abilities take time to develop – and that means practising, learning and exploring in different situations, whenever you get the chance.

Despite the sometimes harsh weather, the Cairngorms is actually a great location for beginners to backcountry skiing. Firstly, the various hill roads offer good access up towards the snowline. Secondly, there’s plenty of easy-angled terrain options. Thirdly, varied terrain options include forests, mountain tracks, sheltered corries and ‘burnlines’ (snowed-up stream beds). These can all be used to help dial in different ski touring skills, for example transitions, Companion Rescue and cramponing (see the post Essential Ski Touring Skills for a detailed overview). Fourthly, there are several outdoor shops in Aviemore which provide excellent touring kit hire.

There’s another reason the Cairngorms is one of the best places in Scotland to learn backcountry skiing. That’s actually the local ski areas. These offer great additional options for working on ski technique. Furthermore, their uplift can provide a valuable head-start for a touring day! Are you wondering what to wear for ski touring in Scotland? That’s not surprising, considering the weather! Frequent changes in weather and body temperature can be hard to deal with, so wear different layers that you can add or take off. You might even get a sunny day, so don’t forget UV protection.

Another important issue is choosing the right gloves for ski touring and mountaineering. Strong winds and sometimes wet conditions can make it difficult to keep hands warm. Having spare dry gloves on a Scottiish ski tour is a very good call. Finally, well-chosen boots will help you avoid blisters, whilst being compatible with your bindings.

Ski touring routes in Scotland

Scotland has plenty of ski touring routes, although, importantly, they are rarely signposted. So make sure your navigation is reliable. Our highest summits reach about 1,300m, so there’s no need to acclimatise. And breaks in the weather bring stupendous views. Cairn Gorm, Glencoe, Nevisrange and Drumochter all offer superb backcountry terrain. Five ski areas also offer options for on-piste and lift-accessed backcountry or sidecountry adventures (for example, using ‘touring tickets’ and/or the famous Cairn Gorm mountain railway). And if you time your visit right, you might coincide with backcountry events such as the Scottish Freeride, SkiMo Scotland or UpBattle.

Although we don’t have alpine-style mountain huts, or glaciers, there are plenty of welcoming villages, good outdoor shops and ski hires staffed by active local riders.

Cairngorms ski touring routes

The Cairngorms mountain range is recognised as Britain’s snowiest place, with an average of 76 days of sleet or snow falling per year (Data from the UK Met Office). In the Southern Cairngorms, Ben a Bhuird and the Glenshee hills offer classic days out. The northern Cairngorms hold many of Scotland’s most famous ski touring routes including the Northern Corries Circuit, Ben Macdui, Carn Ban Mor and the Cairngorm Four Thousanders. But there are also plenty of shorter and easier routes, ideally suited to backcountry beginners, including Cairn Gorm summit and Lurchers Gully. In addition, the northern Cairngorms has a good range of freeride and steep skiing routes too. Gentler lines include The Numbers and 0.5 Gully, with steeper ones being Diagonal Gully and Aladdins Couloir (although any of these can be exposed and avalanche-prone in certain conditions). Depending on the conditions and time of year, you might have a bit of a walk to the snowline (to make things easier and add stoke, you could use a bike for the approach).

Should you book a ski touring guide in Scotland?

Of course, I would always recommend it, but it does depend on your abilities and goals. If you’re happy to explore alone or with friends, make sure you are well equipped and prepared to change plan.

So, ski touring in Scotland offers great journeys, quality learning and a real sense of achievement.

‘If you can ski in Scotland, you can ski anywhere in the world’

Anon

As climate change bites and European resorts all lose snow cover, maybe more Brits will think about the great skiing potential on their doorstep. Hopefully, you’ll get the views and nice turns, but you will definitely have an adventure!