Sea kayak hull shape

As mentioned before, sea kayaks tend to be quite long – around 5m/17ft in most cases. This long waterline length actually helps the boat travel faster and straighter. Next, these vessels usually fall into one of two categories: fish form or Swedish form. Like many sea-going vessels, sea kayak hulls are also carefully sculpted. For example, their hull might be rounded, flat-bottomed, v-shaped, hard-chined or soft-chined. These shapes affect the vessels primary and secondary stability and wave-handling. To improve manouverability, manufacturers may also add ‘rocker‘ to the hull.

So how does the Scorpio handle?

The Scorpio has a ‘Swedish form slightly V-shaped hull with soft chines and a pronounced rocker’. Thus, it responds well to a wide variety of paddling strokes. Primary stability is very good in most conditions. It rolls well (despite the wide rear deck) and cruises comfortably, especially when loaded. Decent secondary stability helps turning and edging (for example when rockhopping or surfing). However, its long length and rocker means it weathercocks readily, making the skeg a well-used feature! (see below).

Sea kayak hull materials

When choosing a sea kayak, hull material will play a big part in your decision. Manufacturers use plastic, fibreglass or kevlar (you occassionally see handbuilt wooden ones, too). Plastic can be either single-layer (cheap and light), or triple layer (strong but heavier). Fibreglass boats are less impact-resistant than plastic, but much lighter, more responsive and around twice the price of the equivalent plastic boat (eg: the P&H Cetus is the fibreglass version of the Scorpio). They can also be repaired more easily. Finally, kevlar boats are very strong, incredibly light and uber-expensive. The P&H Scorpio is a 3-layer plastic expedition kayak which can take a lot of punishment (the Mk2 is noticeably lighter than the Mk1). The Mk2 is also manufactured in three different volumes: low, medium and high, to accomodate different sized paddlers.

The flip side of a long waterline is that these craft can be harder to steer- especially in windy conditions. Therefore, most have either an adjustable skeg or a rudder to help maintain direction. A skeg helps the boat track straight in windy conditions, whereas a foot-operated rudder helps with steering. The Mk1 Scorpio had a string-operated skeg, whereas the Mk2 has an optional wire-operated ‘skudder’ – a combination skeg and rudder. The Mk1 skeg deploys inadvertently (potentially leading to damage) during launch and landing. This is due to the position of the slider. The Mk2 slider is now on top of the deck to avoid this. However, the skeg itself seems more fiddly than the Mk1 and runs the risk of a bent wire if not looked after.

⚠️ Rock impacts, seaweed, gravel and salt buildup can all ruin rudders and skegs, so look after them carefully!

Fittings

Sea kayaks can have various extra fittings, some of which you can specify when choosing a new sea kayak. Decklines are a standard safety feature, used to provide gear attachment points or for for towing and rafting. They also provide important handholds during launching, landing and rescues. The footrests and seat are vital for comfort and power transfer. If poorly fitted, the boats handling can be seriously impaired. The Mk2 Scorpio has more space behind the seat than the previous version, and more hip padding too. And the ‘twist and slide’ type footrest adjusters have always worked really well for me.

Finally, when choosing a sea kayak, you may want to consider additional deck fittings, for example a pump, bow compass or towing cleat. Most boats have some form of locking eye as standard. Some paddlers even install an anchor trolley or kayak sail. My bow compass which has been invaluable when navigating through skerries and making exposed crossings. The Mk2 Scorpio now includes moulded recesses for a sailing rig and spare paddles (but I’ll stick with my Northwater Paddle Britches). You may also want to consider a callapsible canoe trolley to help with portages.