The wonderful inner Hebridean isle of Mull has to be one of my favourite Scottish islands – an almost purpose-made location for enjoying birds of prey, otters and wildlife walks.
Over many years of widlife guiding across the Highlands and Islands of Scotland, I have on more than one occasion found myself describing Mull as an island that seems almost purpose-made for enjoying some of Britain’s best wildlife and birdwatching. Maybe it’s the picturesque windy road that circumnavigates the island. Or maybe it’s the rugged mountainous interior. Perhaps it’s the seemingly endless and varied coastline, with epic views aplenty. Or maybe it’s a combination of all these and more.
Below is a short intro to this wonderful island from a wildlife guide’s point of view (for an overview of Scotland’s wildlife, see Wildlife in Scotland: A Beginner’s Guide). There isn’t space or time to do justice to all the wonderful people, locations, history, community projects and businesses on this island. But maybe this will whet your appetite for exploration!
Island factfile ⚐
Name: Mull Translation: Gaelic: ‘Muile’ meaning ‘jutting crag’ Population: 3063 (2022) Highest point: Ben More 966m (3169ft) Size: 875 sq km (338 sq miles), Main settlement: Tobermory Ferries: Oban to Craignure (1 hour), Lochaline to Fishnish (15 mins), Kilchoan to Tobermory (35 mins) Fascinating fact: 4th largest Scottish island, Go there for: Wide variety of bird and marine wildlife, otters, Iona Abbey, rugged walks, Tobermory, Viking and medieval history, geology.
Wildlife-friendly geology
Mull’s 300 mile-long coastline is only a little smaller than that of Skye, the largest inner Hebridean island. It’s mountainous interior is mostly dense sharp gabbro rock, the highest point being Ben More (966m). This is all that remains of a large volcano, who’s radiating lava flows gradually formed the island. The resulting basalt rock now forms a complex vegetated landscape, dotted by cliffs and outcrops. This in turn provides good habitat for a wide range of animals and plants.
Many of Mulls beaches consist of pebbles and boulders, although a few sandy bays with machair can be found. The west side is exposed to the Atlantic, with only slight shelter from the islands Coll and Tiree. However, the Firth of Lorn and rugged Morvern and Ardnamuchan peninsulas guard its opposite side. The isle of Mull’s grassland, woods and moorland attract many species, including birds of prey. In contrast, the productive sea lochs are both home and feeding grounds for various waders, divers and waterfowl.
Fingals Cave on the isle of Staffa is one of Mull’s most famous landmarks. Yawning out from otherworldly columns of basalt rock, this spectacular cave inspired Mendelssohn’s famous Hebridean Overture.
Indeed, it’s the birds of prey, otters and other wildlife that draws most visitors to the beautiful isle of Mull. Bring patience, a sense of adventure and a set of decent binoculars (or a camera with a good zoom) and you stand the chance of encountering some of the UK’s rarest and most iconic species.
Wildlife on the Isle of Mull
The isle of Mull has earned fame as one of the best birdwatching and wildlife destinations in Britain. There are several reasons for this. Firstly, the island is home to good numbers of both golden eagles and sea eagles (about 22 pairs of the latter). Secondly, the isle of Mull’s shoreline lends itself well to viewing otters – of which there are plenty. Thirdly, several small islands offshore are home to important breeding colonies of puffins and fourthly, the seas round about regularly provide sightings of whales, dolphins, seals, seabirds and even basking sharks.
The isle of Mull’s rich coastline supports many otters. They time their activity with the movement of the tides and feed on a wide variety of prey. Some are relatively unfazed by people, whereas others are very wary!
Glen More and the Ross of Mull
Long, winding Glen More in the south presents one of the best birdwatching opportunities on the isle of Mull, especially for birds of prey. The big mountain scenery, open skies and wild hillsides can deliver geat views of eagles, harriers, falcons and even owls. In fact, it is referred to in some circles as ‘raptor alley’! Continuing southwest down the Ross of Mull peninsula (AKA the ‘Ross road’) needs plenty of time due to great scenery and the road often being narrow, bumpy and busy.
The huge cliffs and hidden bays to the south are mostly innaccessible by car, with Carsaig being one notable exception. However, the beautiful sea loch Scridain accompanies you along the north side of the peninsula, sometimes offering views of otters and divers. At the end is the village of Fionnphort (pronounced ‘FINN-a-foot’). Here you will be rewarded with stunning sandy bays and the much-visited Isle of Iona, with its world famous 6th century monastery. Birders might enjoy the challenge of trying to tick off the rare, skulking but vocal corncrakes here.
👀 Top 10 wildlife species on the Isle of Mull
- Golden eagle
- White-tailed sea eagle
- Otter
- Hen harrier
- Short-eared owl
- Grey seal
- Common dolphin
- Minke whale
- Puffin
- Corncrake
Responsible birdwatching when on Mull
Remember many of the the island’s famous wildlife species are protected by law. If you get too close by photographing, watching, interacting or attempting to feed them, you may be committing a wildlife crime.
Private Mull Wildlife Tour
This multi day personalised tour takes in some of the best wildlife habitats on the beautiful island of Mull. Friendly, expert guiding and flexibile itinerary (PRICE FOR MAX 2 ADULTS | PRIVATE | 3, 4 OR 5 DAYS).
Loch na Keal and the west
Loch na Keal is a spectacular sea loch that nearly cuts Mull in half on the western side. Resident grey seals haul out on its small islands and skerries, while swimming geese and seaducks can be a target for the local sea eagles. The small island of Ulva is so close to Mull that you can nearly touch it and the Treshnish Isles and Staffa beckon in the distance. Note that the coast road becomes exceptionally narrow towards Gribun. In fact, at time of writing the road south of here is closed due to rockfall so you may have to double back.
🚙 Drive considerately to avoid frayed nerves and angry locals! Firstly, use passing places to let both oncoming and following vehicles pass. Second, park in carparks or laybys, not outside farmers gates or in passing places. Third, leave time and space for windy roads, slow traffic and cyclists!
Southeast Mull
The low-lying southeast corner of the isle of Mull offers good habitat for several birds of prey species and otters. In addition, the nearby secluded sea lochs of Don, Spelve and Buie are home to waders, otters and sometimes even dolphins. Craignure is close by with the main ferry slip, accomodation and visitor facilities. The 14th century Maclean stronghold of Duart castle overlooks the sound from the south.
Craignure, Tobermory and the north
The east side of Mull is comparatively simple geographically, with a relatively fast road taking you from Craignure, past the small ferry slip at Fishnish, up to Tobermory (20 miles). The northern half of the island feels greener, with areas of rolling hills, fields and sheltered woodlands. Here you can find Loch Frisa, a deep freshwater loch alongside which the isle of Mull’s most famous eagle family resides – you may have watched their antics on BBC’s popular wildlife shows Springwatch and Autumnwatch. From the north of the island, you can see the islands of Coll and Tiree and if you want a short walk here, Calgary bay ranks as one of the most picturesque sandy beaches on Mull. Keep an eye out for whales and dolphins and other marine wildlife if you are near the coast (which is most of the time!).
Nature-based tourism and island life
Because of all this natural granduer, Mull has a thriving tourist economy. Tobermory, the main town (population approx 1000) has hotels, shops, restaurants and cafes colourful enough to earn it fame in the children’s TV series Balamory. There are a good number of wonderful accomodation providers and cafes dotted around the island. And if watching birds isn’t your thing the isle of Mull has plenty of Celtic, viking and medieval history to explore. Fishing and cruise boats are a frequent sight and, as you might guess, the seafood is among the best you’ll get anywhere.
Sure, exploring Mull does have it’s challenges. For some, these might be twisty roads, ferry woes, midges, limited facilities or bad weather. But in my opinion, these are all typical of Highland – particularly island – life. Fret too much and you’ll hate your visit. But accept them and you will discover a place that pulls you away from the screen-obsessed world and dumps you amongst mountains, birdsong, waves, beaches and big skies.
The Isle of Mull is a peaceful, welcoming island and a haven for wildlife. Nature-based tourism is vital to the islands economy, so whether you are a birder, cyclist or hiker you are sure to get a warm welcome. Although this leads to inevitable busyness in some areas, there are many community projects (eg: MICT), artists and businesses committed to both showing off and caring for the islands wonderful nature.
Frequently asked questions
Mull is served by 3 ferries. The main one takes about an hour from Oban on the Scottish mainland to Craignure.
Otters inhabit many locations around Mulls coastline. Remember, they need a source of freshwater for drinking, so look for locations near streams and rivers.
Glen More is a very good place to start, but both golden and sea eagles can show up in many locations across the island. Golden eagles tend to prefer hills and mountains, whilst white-tailed sea eagles often hunt near sea lochs and coasts. This isn’t a hard and fast rule though!
Yes, pine martens are thought to have colonised Mull in recent years via timber shipments. It is thought unlikely, however, that they were ever native.